Christine Beyleveldt

Just two hours away from Tauranga is Coromandel, widely considered the ultimate weekend destination here in Northland. Okay, maybe second to Waiheke Island. But if you’ve only got two or three days to cram in a beach getaway, this is how you ought to do it.

Whangamatā and Donut Island

First stop, Whangamatā. An hour and a half from the Bay of Plenty is this quaint seaside town. But just off the coast of Whangamatā beach is the real gem: Donut Island, a spectacular ring-shaped island with a turquoise lagoon at its centre that formed when an ancient volcanic blowhole collapsed. It’s a beautiful, albeit HOT, sunny day when I arrive and pull up at the SurfSUP paddy wagon. You can join a guided tour for $105 (recommended if it’s your first time) or hire a kayak for two hours for $35. The island is only about half a kilometre offshore and can be reached in about 15-20 minutes on a calm day, and the lagoon at its centre when the tide is high and the swell is low. Paddle around the west side of the island and you’ll find a narrow entrance leading to the grotto.

Now, note that the island is a wildlife sanctuary and you will have to sign as part of your waiver an agreement not to set foot on the island to protect the native Tuatara—rare lizard-like reptiles indigenous to New Zealand. You can admire the inner grotto from the safety and comfort of your kayak. Sadly, flouting the rules has lead to fears that the island will be barred to visitors altogether.

Hahei

After Whangamatā, I continue my journey up the east coast of the peninsula to Hahei, a picturesque coastal town with blinding white cliffs. Hahei beach is paradise, but most people come for Cathedral Cove, which you may remember as the backdrop of the ruins of Cair Paravel from The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian.

The Hahei Beach Resort is situated just a stone’s throw from the beach, and even though you can’t dig a hole for hot water (more on that in a minute), there are hot tubs and a sauna overlooking the surf, which I consider a fair trade-off. If you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Cathedral Cove, Hahei Beach is the perfect spot to spread out a blanket, soak up some sun while reading a good book, get dizzy on the beach swing, or watch the sun go down with a side of fish and chips.

Cathedral Cove

Despite the crowds, you still definitely want to check out Cathedral Cove. Since the pandemic, you can no longer park at the lot at the top of Grange Road. There are, however, two large car parks servicing visitors.

The Hahei Visitor Carpark on Pa Road at the village entrance is free and a shuttle runs between the carpark and the trailhead at the top of Grange Road every ten minutes. A round-trip fare is just $8 and the shuttle operates between 9:00 am and 6:00 pm during peak season, with the parking lot gates closing at 7:00 pm. Fancy stretching your legs? You can also hike to the top of Grange Road to reach the start of the Mautohe Track. but it is a steep climb up a winding road and it will double your walking time.

The alternative is to park at Lees Road, which costs $15 per vehicle per day and takes just 20 minutes to join up with the Mautohe Track. The Track itself takes about 45 minutes to walk and traces a path through the New Zealand World War I Memorial Forest. The beach itself is often busy with water taxis, kayak tours and catamarans pulling up along its shore throughout the day. However, you don’t want to skip this one. I spent several happy hours wallowing in the crystal clear turquoise water.

Hot Water Beach

At the end of a long day, I set up camp for the night at the Holiday Park at Hot Water Beach. It’s best to visit the beach two hours on either side of low tide, which generally occurs around 8:00 am and 8:00 pm. Hot Water Beach is a unique geothermal area, and when the tide goes out, holiday makers trudge out onto the sand with their shovels and dig holes that fill up with hot groundwater.

Whitianga and Mercury Bay

If you’ve got a day to spare, I highly recommend venturing further on to Whitianga. More specifically, to The Lost Spring. New Zealand is well-known for its hot pools, but this geothermal pool and spa really takes the cake. Tucked away in a semi-tropical grove in the middle of Whitianga, the spring features thousand-year-old natural spring water and an assortment of amethyst pools and grottos.

At the end of the weekend, I packed up my camp and drove out to Mercury Bay where I visited the Estate for lunch. Check back here later for details on the menu!